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Michael Lawler's avatar

I was in Budapest in September of '89 -- months before the fall of the Soviet Union. There were MIGs doing frequent fly-overs, and small cohorts of disconsolate Soviet soldier boys everywhere, smoking, leaning against walls and fences, Kalashnikovs slung from their shoulders.

My traveling companion had a fair command of schoolboy Russian, which was our only language in common, but no Hungarian would speak it to him, preferring to point and gesture. The cousin of an American friend, who spoke English, explained to us that the Hungarians so hated the Russians that despite having had to learn Russian in school, no one would speak it. To emphasize the point he spat on the ground. The walls of many buildings were scarred from the bullets and artillery of the 1956 revolution.

The cracks in the Soviet bloc were beginning show: there were people slipping through the now porous border with Austria. Budapest was awash with beaten up Ladas and Skodas making the trek from parts east.

Although Budapest had some signs of the western economy -- a McDonald's and some high end stores that one might see in an outlet mall -- Gucci and the like, it seemed to us to be dirt poor. However, once we arrived in Bulgaria, we saw just how relatively well off the Hungarians had been. Bulgaria in 1989 made Budapest look like Beverly Hills.

BBS's avatar

Even in a simple post from the road like this, your writing reflects , equally, your character, intellect, and heart. Can’t wait for the next “chapter.” Be safe.

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